johna's blog

Amstrad NC100 Notebook Computer Fuse Replacement

2026-05-28T12:00:00+10:00

I recently acquired a faulty Amstrad NC100 "Notebook Computer" from around 1992.

These were designed to be a simple to use computer for people who didn't know how to use computers. It has a built-in word processor, organiser, calculator and BASIC programming language. They run off AA batteries or a 6 volt DC power supply, and use a CR2032 lithium battery to store the contents of memory as there is no other form of storage.

Mine came complete with the original power supply, carry case and user's manual but wouldn't power on.

I did a little research and the common cause is simply a blown fuse. These use a less-common negative-tip power supply and will blow the fuse if the wrong power supply is connected.

Unfortunately the fuse is a surface mount device soldered to the underside of the main circuit board.

Although the circuit board label for the fuse is 0.8A (F301is the location), mine was fitted with one labelled "20" – which means 2.0A – and looked to be the original. My guess is that blown fuses were a common issue for Amstrad and they may have increased the value during production in hopes of reducing returns.

Sure enough, mine did have a blown fuse and I replaced it with a piece of wire to temporarily test it which is perfectly safe as long as you use a good power supply of the right type.

If you need to obtain a replacement fuse the size is 1210 and they are of a non-resetting type. I found this one on eBay and it appears to be a perfect match.

There are plenty of good instructions on how to disassemble this model, including YouTube videos, so this post is just to recommend which replacement fuse to use.

Diamond DM600 VHS Video Recorder

2026-05-24T12:00:00+10:00

I bought this Diamond DM600 VHS video recorder somewhere around 2000, around the time when VHS players were being replaced with DVD players and recorders. I have never heard of the brand aside from this model, and recall that it was inexpensive.

It is made in Thailand by Orion Electric Co. Ltd. of Japan.

It features AV out (rear) and two AV inputs (front and rear), 6-head HI-FI stereo. It also has the typical features of late model VCRs like auto tracking, multiple tape speeds and on-screen display.

The video recorder has been reliable until recently when the picture quality deteriorated. The cause of this fault ended up being just loose screws. The three screws that secure the cassette mechanism and one screw that secures the circuit board had all come loose and this was causing poor connect with the mechanism and the circuit board.

The remote control model number is 076N0ED140.

How to fix Bissel Little Green water leaks at the trigger

2025-10-04T12:00:00+10:00

If your Bissell Little Green is leaking water and cleaning solution over your hand the common problem is a broken coupling. This is the part that the tool attaches too so that water can pass to the tool.

To check for this, all you need to do is remove the two screws from around the trigger and remove the panel. You can then see if the end has broken off the coupling. It may not be obvious if only partially broken but you can run the unit with that cover off and see where the water comes out when you press the trigger.

I don't know if this part can be bought from Bissell or how much they cost but I could not find any way of buying one online, so I assume they are not available.

I did find a 3D model that can be 3D printed if you have access to one. The creator of this part called it a flow re-director. I also found these available for sale on Etsy for about 30 British Pounds! No thanks.

I saw posts where people have tried to fix their broken coupling with glue but that it didn't work or last long.

As a cheaper alternative, I fitted a metal barbed fitting that I purchased from Aliexpress for less than A$5. The part I chose has an M3 thread and a 5.14mm barb.

The hole where the original piece broke off is about 2.5mm in diameter and I ran an M3 x 0.5 tap through it which produced a very loose thread that did not seal well. I also filed the surface flat where the piece had broken off. I did have to seal the thread with epoxy and this has worked well.

In hindsight an M4 thread and fitting might have been a better option.

The fitting I used was a pneumatic hose fitting with M3 thread but is also available with M4 thread. I chose this type as they include a rubber seal but there were other options including brass fittings which would also be a good choice as they have a wider channel.

The other important measurements are the inner diameter of the pipe that needs to connected to the barb which is 5mm, and there is a limit on how long the non-threaded section can be - the original extends only 10mm - so it can't be too much longer than that.

So the process will be to first file the surface flat (for better sealing), tap a new thread (could probably be done with a screw or the fitting if you don't have a tap and die set), screw in the new fitting, cut the existing pipe a little shorter (as the fitting has the hex part for the spanner so will protrude further) and reattach everything.

Here are some pictures from working on my unit that may help you repair yours.

Getting the broken part out using a thin screw.

How to replace the door switch on Aldi Stirling STR-FL80 front-loader washing machine (error E4)

2023-11-25T12:00:00+10:00

Our Stirling STR-FL80 8kg front loader washing machine that we purchased from Aldi has been intermittently not working and showing error E4.

This error message indicates a problem with the door interlock switch.

I couldn't find any mention of a replacement part online, but after looking through pictures of other door switches I could see that there are lots of models that use a very similar part.

Most of them look almost the same but there are a few minor differences. It's only important that the basic shape is the same and the electrical connector is the same, and the location of the lock is the same.

You can search eBay for a Hisense, Haier or TCL door switch, confirm it looks very similar and get one. Expect to pay $10-$20 for the cheap ones from Chinese sellers, some of which might have local stock.

Installation is fairly simple. Start by unplugging the unit from the power supply for safety.

You will need to remove the top cover which is held on by two screws on the back, top of each side. Once the screws are out pull it backwards to unlock it.

Then open the door and unscrew the two switches at the front of the washing machine around the door lock hole.

You can then reach down into the machine and start manoeuvring the door switch into a position where you can see a piece of string that is looped onto the bottom of the door switch (this is the emergency door release pull). It's easiest if you can get the switch into a position where that part is sticking out the door lock hole so you can separate the string from the door switch and then importantly not lose the string back into the machine. A helper will be useful for this purpose.

Once the string is disconnected you can pull the door switch up and out and unplug the electrical connector by squeezing the locking part of the plug and pulling.

You may want to transfer the piece of foam from the old to new switch. I forgot to do this and it probably is not important.

Now you can connect the plug to your new door switch and then fish it back down into the depths of the machine and try and position it so that same piece is out of the hole and the string can be reattached.

If you lose the string then you can either try and find it again by reaching down to the bottom of the machine, or leave it disconnected and deal with if you ever need the emergency release. Personally, I've never used the emergency release and don't even know what to pull.

Next step is to get the door switch into position. You will need to feel which way the lock hole is so you can try and match that up with the front of the washing machine. From memory, the electrical connect faces down (could be wrong), but just keep rotating it until things line up and then you can get those two screws in to secure the switch.

Then it is top cover back on and time to test your work.

Here are some photos of the original switch to give you an idea of what to look for when finding a replacement.

And here is what you can look for on eBay.

Electrolux/Simpson/Westinghouse clothes dryer struggles to start spinning

2023-07-20T12:00:00+10:00

Does your Electrolux, Simpson or Westinghouse clothes dryer sometimes not spin?

I've had this problem for a while on our previous Electrolux EDV505 and our current EDV605.

I have researched it and read that rear bearings, capacitors and belts are the usual causes.

It wasn't until I opened the dryer and removed the drum that I found the cause of the problem.

I always keep an eye out for people giving away these dryers when they break so I can get them for extra parts, as our dryer, which gets a lot of use, often breaks down.

So recently I was lucky enough to have two dryers that I had disassembled, to compare and try and work out what the problem is.

With the back panel removed it was easy to see that the drum on our dryer could not turn as freely as the drum on the spare dryer I had. The reason is the front bearings, which are some plastic support pieces and a circular padded strip that runs around the front door surround.

You can buy these parts new for about A$60. The part number is 0542377022.

I found it impossible to remove the old bearing parts without breaking them, but that doesn't matter if you are replacing them. They are clipped in and need to be pushed inwards before they will come out.

For our dryer, I removed the entire plastic frame from my parts dryer and swapped it into our "good" dryer. The result was that it was much better, but the parts dryer was pretty worn out so every now and then it still doesn't start.

Ozito LT4-1000 replacement line trimmer head

2023-05-05T12:00:00+10:00

If you need a replacement head for your Ozito LT4-1000 (4 in 1 Garden Pack) line trimmer, then the cheap generic line trimmer heads on eBay Australia and Aliexpress do fit.

Look for the red or black universal heads that have a 10mm reverse-thread nut, the same as in the photo on this page. Or buy the same one from eBay Australia that I bought that was cheap and delivered in a reasonable amount of time.

These are usually around A$10 to A$15, quite often delivered from China (even if eBay says from Australia).

Installation is the same as the original head. You can find instructions on ManualsLib.com but basically you will need to lock the head into place with a pin and then you can unscrew the old one and screw on the new one. These are reverse thread so turn clockwise to remove and anti-clockwise to install.

Bearing replacement on an Electrolux EDV505 and similar Simpson and Westinghouse clothes dryers

2023-01-06T12:00:00+10:00

The rear bearing on the Electrolux EDV505 and other similar Electrolux, Simpson and Westinghouse dryers are a common failure item.

As soon as you hear it squeaking it's time to replace it. Otherwise, it will eventually fail altogether and can also damage the dryer.

Bearings are inexpensive (I got one for less than A$11 shipped on eBay) and easy to replace.

In the case of our clothes dryer, the bearing was well past the squeaking stage and had got so bad the dryer was no longer working at all. The rear metal panel had also worn away. I did a little online research and the advice was that the rear panel should be replaced, but I couldn't find one and I guessed that the cost would have been prohibitive anyway [Edit: Yep, A$107], so I opted to just change the bearing and hope.

There are plenty of instructions on how to replace the bearing online including YouTube videos but I've summarised the process below. You will need 1/4" and 1/2" sockets, and a crosshead screwdriver.

1. It may be easier if you lay the dryer face down - but be careful of damaging the door.

2. Remove the smaller metal panel (1/4" socket, #15 in diagram) in the centre of the rear metal panel of the dryer.

3. Remove the screws for the heating element (1/4" socket, #19 in diagram), pull it out partially, unplug it and remove it.

4. Remove the nut from the back of the drum (1/2" socket, #16 in diagram).

5. Remove the rear metal panel (1/4" socket, #18 in diagram) by unscrewing all of the screws on the perimeter. You may need to unclip the power cable from it before you can remove it fully.

6. Unscrew the bearing carrier (#21 in diagram) from the rear metal panel.

7. Replace the bearing (#20 in diagram).

8. Reverse the process to put it all back together. Maybe give it a clean while you are in there.

Despite the damage to the rear panel of our dryer, it has been working better than ever with the new bearing. The worn-away panel may mean there is less support for the bearing so it may not last as long, but A$11 saved us buying a new dryer for a while at least.

Here is a link to the bearing I purchased: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/253606002486

How to replace the door hinge on an Electrolux EDV505 clothes dryer

2022-11-08T12:00:00+10:00

These instructions apply to the Electrolux EDV505 but other Electrolux, Simpson and Westinghouse models may be similar.

The first step is to remove the door, if it hasn't already completely broken off. Unscrew the two screws holding the hinge to the dryer.

With the door off and laying face down, unscrew the two hinge screws and the one screw at the other end of the door.

Remove the large rubber seal that runs around the inside of the clear part of the door. Take note of which way it came out.

Now comes the tricky part. The clear part of the door is attached to the rest of the door by clips on the inner and clips on the outside. You need to work your way around the door, unclipping the inner and outer clips.

The inner clips will release by pushing them in. I used a flat screwdriver. Then you can release the outer clips by pushing them with a screwdriver towards the inner part of the door. It helps to have another screwdriver levering the two pieces of the door apart at the same time. For this reason, it is best to start near the hinge, as you can easily pry from that area.

You may not need to release all the clips to get enough access to replace the hinge.

The plastic pieces at each end of the hinge simply slide out and then you can attach them to the new hinge and slide back in.

Then simply push the two door pieces back together and ensure all clips go back into place and then reinstall the rubber seal which pushes into place easily.

Reinstall the three screws on the door then attach to the dryer using the two screws.

How to disassemble Rinnai Avenger 25 gas heater (investigating error code 11)

2022-01-03T12:00:00+10:00

Our Rinnai Avenger 25 is suffering from error code 11. This error indicates that the heater did not ignite correctly and possible causes are no gas supply or no ignition.

In the case of our heater, I can hear it sparking and then I can feel plenty of heat coming from it, but the sparking does not stop and eventually, it switches off and shows error 11.

Based on this, I suspected one of the flame sensors might be the problem and read that they sometimes need cleaning so that was the first thing I wanted to try.

But how do you disassemble these heaters?

Disassemble your heater at your own risk. Attempting to repair your own heater can be extremely dangerous and it may even be illegal to work on these yourself. I don't know what I'm doing so don't blame me if something goes wrong as a result of reading my instructions.

To take off the front panel you need to unscrew the two Phillips head screws at each side of the bottom of the grille part of the front panel. The grille then tilts upwards and can be pulled out.

Then there are two Philips head screws on each side of the heater near the top, just in front of the handles. Once these are removed the front panel will tilt outwards a bit and then needs to be unclipped from the top panel which is a little awkward.

You may not need to remove the top panel but if you do then undo the three Philips head screws at the top, rear of the heater. It can then be pulled upwards, but it is held on by electrical connections. Even leaving it connected, you should have enough access for most work.

The flame sensors (described as thermocouples in the parts list) are located on each side of the metal part of the heater.

To remove the one on the left you can unscrew the single Philips head screw from above.

To remove the one on the right, I found it easiest to unscrew the two Philips head screws holding on the plate using a stubby screwdriver.

A little research suggested that the flame sensors can be cleaned with very fine sandpaper. I gave this a try and put it back together and tested the heater, but the problem was unchanged.

I'll post again with any further findings, but hopefully, at least this post is useful as a guide on how to disassemble these heaters.

I'm also including the parts list and diagrams PDF here.

Rinnai Avenger 25 (671TR) / Blaze (571TR) Beige/Platinum Silver parts catalogue

How to fix Fisher & Paykel DW60CSW1 dishwasher

2014-06-23T12:00:00+10:00

My parent in-law's Fisher & Paykel DW60CSW1 dishwasher stopped working. When you turn it on all lights came on but none of the buttons did anything.

The problem was caused by the door switch and is usually easy to fix.

Warning: disconnect power before you do any work on the dishwasher as there are dangerous voltages inside.

To access the door switch you need to remove the screws from the rear side of the door. Take out all the screws at the top holding the plastic control panel first then start removing the screws that hold the rest of the door on. You should only have to remove a few of those before you will have enough clearance to access the door switch.

The door switch is held in place by the two screws at the top of the door. Once these are out you can remove the door switch, then disconnect the two wires attached to it. It doesn't matter which one of these wires connects to each connector of the switch.

The problem with this switch was not the microswitch itself, but the plastic part of the switch which had deformed slightly over the years and the pivoting part of the switch which activates the microswitch was not pushing the microswitch down far enough.

Once you have it out you can test the switch with a multimeter. When you push the plastic pivoting part in (it will lock into place in open and closed positions) you should have full conductivity. If you don't, remove the microswitch from the assembly and test it on its own.

The best fix is a new complete switch mechanism but I was able to fix this one by jamming a piece of plastic underneath the microswitch to lift it high enough to make better contact. I then used a cable tie to hold it all together.

David left a comment with information on a replacement microswitch that can be ordered from RS Components (part number 804-6209). Thanks, David.

The following photos of the switch were kindly supplied by a reader, Shuey. They show the switch, how it is held in place, and how Shuey fixed his with a bread tie. Thanks, Shuey!