How to fix Fisher & Paykel DW60CSW1 dishwasher
My parent in-law's Fisher & Paykel DW60CSW1 dishwasher stopped working. When you turn it on all lights came on but none of the buttons did anything.
The problem was caused by the door switch and is usually easy to fix.
To access the door switch you need to remove the screws from the rear side of the door. Take out all the screws at the top holding the plastic control panel first then start removing the screws that hold the rest of the door on. You should only have to remove a few of those before you will have enough clearance to access the door switch.
The door switch is held in place by the two screws at the top of the door. Once these are out you can remove the door switch, then disconnect the two wires attached to it. It doesn't matter which one of these wires connects to each connector of the switch.
The problem with this switch was not the microswitch itself, but the plastic part of the switch which had deformed slightly over the years and the pivoting part of the switch which activates the microswitch was not pushing the microswitch down far enough.
Once you have it out you can test the switch with a multimeter. When you push the plastic pivoting part in (it will lock into place in open and closed positions) you should have full conductivity. If you don't, remove the microswitch from the assembly and test it on its own.
The best fix is a new complete switch mechanism but I was able to fix this one by jamming a piece of plastic underneath the microswitch to lift it high enough to make better contact. I then used a cable tie to hold it all together.
David left a comment with information on a replacement microswitch that can be ordered from RS Components (part number 804-6209). Thanks, David.
The following photos of the switch were kindly supplied by a reader, Shuey. They show the switch, how it is held in place, and how Shuey fixed his with a bread tie. Thanks, Shuey!
The problem was caused by the door switch and is usually easy to fix.
Warning: disconnect power before you do any work on the dishwasher as there are dangerous voltages inside.
To access the door switch you need to remove the screws from the rear side of the door. Take out all the screws at the top holding the plastic control panel first then start removing the screws that hold the rest of the door on. You should only have to remove a few of those before you will have enough clearance to access the door switch.
The door switch is held in place by the two screws at the top of the door. Once these are out you can remove the door switch, then disconnect the two wires attached to it. It doesn't matter which one of these wires connects to each connector of the switch.
The problem with this switch was not the microswitch itself, but the plastic part of the switch which had deformed slightly over the years and the pivoting part of the switch which activates the microswitch was not pushing the microswitch down far enough.
Once you have it out you can test the switch with a multimeter. When you push the plastic pivoting part in (it will lock into place in open and closed positions) you should have full conductivity. If you don't, remove the microswitch from the assembly and test it on its own.
The best fix is a new complete switch mechanism but I was able to fix this one by jamming a piece of plastic underneath the microswitch to lift it high enough to make better contact. I then used a cable tie to hold it all together.
David left a comment with information on a replacement microswitch that can be ordered from RS Components (part number 804-6209). Thanks, David.
The following photos of the switch were kindly supplied by a reader, Shuey. They show the switch, how it is held in place, and how Shuey fixed his with a bread tie. Thanks, Shuey!
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Comments
by Daz | November 11, 2014
Had exactly the same problem with this dishwasher.
Examined the door switch and discovered that like yours, the plastic pivot thing was not pushing the microswitch down quite far enough. This means the dishwasher thinks the door is still open and hence won't start. I didn't even need a multimeter to diagnose - with the pivot thing down I used a match stick to force the microswitch down a bit further and heard a little click indicating that it was now on. I ended up jamming a couple of staples under the complete switch box the same as you, this forced the whole microswitch assembly up a little in the door lock assembly, meaning that the pivot thing made better contact. Might find something a bit better to jam under there but the staples are doing the job for now.
Thanks for your blog, solved my problem!
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by Nathan Gelhaar | May 5, 2019
Absolute legend, this fixed the problem immediately, a small piece of zip the fixed everything. I wonder how many of these machines have been thrown away because of this!!!! Thank you
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by Reili | January 2, 2016
This post was a life saver for us! Had exactly the same problem and fixed it thanks to this post. Thank you!
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by Martin | March 1, 2016
Thank you very much for the advice. I had the same problem and cut up an old store card to wedge under the switch. Dishwasher working again!
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by Wasant | February 4, 2018
You have just saved me, John...Thank you so much. I have done it by using 2mm solid sponge. It may sit too tight but I am sure it will last for years ahead.
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by Paula | April 4, 2018
Yahoo! Thanks for your post. I got my dishwasher going again.
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by Rom | April 20, 2018
mostly i'm not a fan of the internet. but then a little gem of info like this pops up, saves me likely a couple hundred dollar call out, and i have to admit cyberspace has my back. Thanks loads John! I cut up some small squares of plastic and squeezed them under the micro-switch, perfect fix :-)
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by John Avis | April 22, 2018
I'm happy this post has helped a few people fix their dishwasher.
It would have been good if I had taken a photo of the switch to show the problem, but I didn't at the time.
If anyone else does this repair and can take a photo please send it to me so I can add it here... Thanks!
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by Marshall | December 2, 2018
I have a similar unit (DW60CEX1) with the exact same problem.
The microswitch controlling the door had it's plunger permanently stuck in, and the COMMON terminal was rather burnt. The replacement I had on hand used screw terminals instead of spades, but a quick crimp with ring terminals and it was good to go. This unit has had a few bits (drain hose, inlet head and now door switch) wear out over its 7 or so years, but they've all been fairly easy fixes thankfully.
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by Adam | May 22, 2019
John thank you soooo much mate, fixed: )
So glad I found your post before my gfriend totally destroyed the machine with a sledgehammer ...now when she gets home from work and see's it running, you know you made me look at least 80% more like a man.
Thank you mate!!!
P.s. See you're in Australia too.
P.p.s e46 driver here, 325ti ....wowzers!
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by John Avis | May 22, 2019
Glad to be of help! If only fixing our BMW's was as easy right?
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by Carlo | August 15, 2019
She lives to rinse another day - Thanks for your post John. Your description is spot on. I cut a piece from an old credit card.
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by Shuey from Newcastle | September 8, 2019
John you Legend!
So glad found your post 5 years later with search term "DW60CSX1 two lights", while other forums offered no solution. The official manual just described as "door not closed" as troubleshooting.
Same symptom as you described, same diagnosis. I even took apart the Korean made microswitch to see how it worked. Interesting though I was not able to take the wires out (crimped and taped). With no electrical training I almost touched the live wires, thankfully did turn off power at the wall switch before tinkering.
The solution - a piece of bread bag clip. I took photos of the process so happy to email them to you. Please advise sending address.
You saved me contacting Fisher & Paykel to send out a technician, or the price of a new dishwasher.
A million thanks!
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by John | September 8, 2019
Thanks Shuey, glad you were able to fix your dishwasher.
Please send any photos you have. I've sent you an email where you can send them.
I was just reading through the comments at all the different things that people have used to fix their switch: staples, piece of zip, credit cards, sponge, various pieces of plastic, and now a bread clip!
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by Shuey | September 9, 2019
John the only email I received was from noreply_at_computeroutpost_dot_com_dot_au
Is that the address to send photos?
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by John | September 9, 2019
Looks like I sent it to myself by accident. I just sent it to you now.
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by Greg McColl | August 6, 2020
Mine has a different problem.....When you start it the fill cycle starts until its about full then it stops and the first 3 lights flash continuosley..sometimes it would go again if i started it another cycle like econo or fast but now it wont finish filling no matter what cycle its on
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by John Avis | August 6, 2020
According to the manual, the first three lights means either water tap not turned on (obviously not the case), insufficient water supply pressure, water supply hose is crimped or bent, or drain hose is too low. Just a guess, but maybe they only allow a certain amount of time to fill otherwise it assumes there is a problem? Is the water pressure okay? Is the drain hose at the right level? See https://www.manualslib.com/manual/761818/Elba-Dw60csw1.html?page=7#manual and https://www.manualslib.com/manual/761818/Elba-Dw60csw1.html?page=27 if you don't have the manual.
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by David | December 1, 2020
Thanks for the article John. I replaced the microswitch shown in your pics with part number 804-6209 from RS Components online shop - Cost was $6.63 delivered. Took 15 minutes to fix.
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by John | December 1, 2020
Thanks David. I will mention that part in the post for others.
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